Skip to main content

Let's Build a Rib!

This is a summary of the rib building procedure as I had posted it to the EAA builders' forums.

How I build a rib:
Nose block, and preformed upper and lower capstrips are placed in the jig. Both capstrips are left long at the trailing edge, the lower sits atop the upper for now. Intercostals are added, forcing the capstrips into final shape. The upper capstrip is marked where it abuts the lower. It's then removed from the jig, trimmed with a razor saw and sanded to final fit. Then all the joints are hit with a sanding bar to bring the pieces down to the same thicknesses, there is some slight variation between them. A vacuum with a brush attachment pulls up all the sanding dust before gluing begins.
Here are all the parts in the jig post sanding.
Cardstock spacers are used either side of the spar blocks to allow easier installation of the finished rib on the spars.

Name:  IMG_0650.jpg
Views: 124
Size:  23.1 KB

Next, the nose gusset is laid in place with an aircraft nail partly driven into the upper and lower capstrips to act as a locator pin and to remind me which side gets epoxy. (I've already finished smearing epoxy on two nose gussets only to realize I did wrong side)
Name:  IMG_0651.jpg
Views: 124
Size:  24.9 KB

I then trace out my nose block template onto the gusset to help me see where to nail.
Name:  IMG_0652.jpg
Views: 124
Size:  20.4 KB

I then lay out all the remaining gussets around the rib in the appropriate pattern for the rib I am making. Some ribs have large gussets at the trailing edge, and the ribs that will get compression struts don't have two of the upper gussets. Laying them out now gives me a chance to catch a mistake before everything is covered in glue.
Name:  IMG_0653.jpg
Views: 122
Size:  20.6 KB

Back side of the nose gusset smeared with epoxy. I started off using acid brushes to spread the epoxy, but felt like more glue was being used to fill the bristles than was actually getting on the parts, so now I just spread it around with the popsicle stick I mixed the epoxy with.
Name:  IMG_0654.jpg
Views: 125
Size:  22.1 KB

Here I've switched from the nose gusset to one of the smaller gussets because it's easier to fit in frame. The steps are the same for all of them.
I smear a little epoxy down into the joint I'm working. Then set the gusset, epoxy-slathered side down, on top of it.
Name:  IMG_0655.jpg
Views: 128
Size:  19.9 KB

I drive a few nails to hold it while I glue and set the rest of the gussets. These suckers are tiny, so they need to be held with tiny pliers or a hemostat when starting them.
Name:  IMG_0656.jpg
Views: 125
Size:  22.1 KB

Then I come back in and finish nailing the gussets down, as per the nailing pattern from the plans.
Name:  IMG_0657.jpg
Views: 122
Size:  23.3 KB

The nose gusset and trailing edge gusset get nails all the way around their perimeters, again, as per the plans.
Name:  IMG_0658.jpg
Views: 121
Size:  19.9 KB

The rib is then removed from the jig so the process can be repeated on the other side.
Name:  IMG_0659.jpg
Views: 121
Size:  19.3 KB

As you can see in the photo above, there are 13 ribs per wing. 5 are shortened for the Aileron bays. Or, more accurately, the jig is modified so that the aileron section may be cut away once the wing is assembled.
  Construction time averages 2.5 hours per rib. As of today I have 15 ribs completed, and 3 more glued and gusseted on only one side. Total time on constructing the jig and ribs so far: 69.5 hours.


Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Fittings. How fitting.

  Not much has happened on the Ace this year. The winter was long and spring has been very cold, so I spent a long time waiting for the garage to warm up. Now that there's a little heat down there I've been making some headway on the next step of my wing build: fittings. I copied the parts off the plans into CAD and then printed them onto cardstock to use as patterns when laying fittings out on the steel stock.    First I tackled the brackets that will hold the pulleys for the aileron cables. I have a lot of extra material in case I had to remake these. The next step was to bend up my fittings. There is one fitting that mounts to the forward side of the strut which gets bent to a 90° angle. The fitting which mounts to the aft side of the spar gets bent at about an 85° angle. I forget the exact number, but don't feel like looking it up at the moment. Next I cut out the aileron control horns. My Harbor Freight porta-band chucked into my vice works well for cutting thes

10 months in under 10 minutes.

I don't feel like going into depth on every little aspect of work I've done over the last 10 months, so I'll hit the highlights and if anyone has questions, feel free to comment and I'll elaborate.  As the year started the garage was cold. With a propane heater it would get warm enough to work for a few hours, but because 4130 steel is an air-tempered alloy, it needs to be sufficiently warm out for welding. Long story short; I can't weld, so I make parts. I plugged away making little bits so I can use them when it comes time to build a new assembly. The landing gear legs and spring struts have metal straps to reinforce the bushings in the ends. I knocked these out in a couple days after work. Likewise, the tabs that will become door hinges and the fittings for the tailwheel were cut, drilled, and deburred. As it warmed up and I got an order of laser-cut parts the aileron control arm and pulley brackets were welded to the torque tube for the control stick.  I also cu

3-D and waiting.

On January 18th I posted my last blog update; both fuselage sides were tack welded. That was seven months ago now. I should update more regularly. Okay, self-flagellation over, let's get to the content! Once both fuselage sides were tack welded, I pulled all the jig blocks off the table, elected not to repaint again, and just laid out the stations for the top view of the fuselage. We lay out the top view because the top of the fuselage is flat which makes it a lot easier to jig things up if you lay out the fuselage upside-down. With the top view lofted out on the table I could start adding in jig blocks starting in the cockpit area where the sides are parallel. A stick and some clamps help hold the sides parallel for this photo op.  Now may be a good time to mention, if I haven't already, that I am widening this fuselage from stock. The original Jr Ace (Model E) was 33-1/8" between tubing centerlines at the widest point. This makes for a pretty cramped space when two peopl